Abstract

Rocha- Filho, Pa*

ABSTRACT

The combination of efficacy and minimalism encourages formulators to seek stable and safe creams with a differentiated sensory experience and, of course, the minimum number of components in the formulation. The components can promote the formation of an ordered arrangement of surfactant and oil molecules, with microscopic structures called lamellar crystalline phases. These structures differentiate the emulsion from traditional ones, in addition to promoting stability, controlled release and skin hydration. These systems exhibit biomimicry with the skin due to their similarity with the lipid-protein organization of the skin barrier, which facilitates interaction with the skin in addition to the differentiated sensory aspect, promoting repair and lasting hydration of the skin. It was developed an O/W emulsion for skin care that presents a lamellar crystalline phase. It was composed by a blend of surfactant (lanolin derivative+ fatty alcohol) + oily phase+ purified water. Urea was employed as hydration agent. The occlusive power of O/W was determined in vitro onto gelatin support cells (noninvasive method) and in vivo method skin biophysical properties evaluation. The developed formulation significantly increased the occlusive power of emulsion. Skin hydration was studied by using an in vitro non-invasive methodology and it was found that the presence of liquid crystal in the emulsion increases the skin hydration level. This was attributed to the fact that it formed the same self-organizing structure as natural stratum corneum lipids.